2006 Mazda Tribute Problems

What owners report

Owners of the 2006 Mazda Tribute most often describe an accelerator pedal that sticks or becomes very hard to press, particularly in cold weather, with some reports of unintended acceleration and others of no response at all. A second recurring theme, mostly on higher-mileage vehicles, is rust in the rear wheel-well and shock-mount area that can leave the rear suspension loose or banging. Engine failures and brake concerns appear as well, generally at higher mileage.

1. 1
   Vehicle speed control

   Sticking or hard-to-press accelerator pedal

   • 46 complaints (35%)
   • median 59,000 mi at 5.3 yrs old (36 state mileage)
   • 3 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • filed 2007–2018

   Owners describe the gas pedal becoming firm and hard to depress, sometimes refusing to move at all until extra force is applied, and in other cases staying stuck after release while the engine keeps revving. Many say it happens mainly in cold weather and is worse at low speed or from a stop, and that pressing harder then makes the vehicle lurch forward. Dealers and independent shops variously suggested cleaning the throttle, replacing the throttle body, or clearing carbon buildup; several owners report the problem returned after these repairs or that the dealer could not duplicate it. Reported across a wide mileage range from under 5,000 to about 180,000 miles, most often in cold weather or below roughly 40 degrees.

   Recall 12V357000

   What to check: On a cold start, press the pedal slowly and steadily and confirm it moves freely and returns fully; ask whether the speed-control cable recall work was completed and whether the throttle body has been cleaned or replaced.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “My 2006 Mazda Tribute has been experiencing problems with the accelerator sticking in the idle position. This evening the pedal would not budge at all leaving the vehicle in idle and me stranded. I am concerned that this pedal problem may cause me to accelerate suddenly if I push very hard on the pedal.”

   NHTSA complaint #10375539, filed 2011-01, 76,000 miles

   “It is been happening more frequently, the gas pedal sticks and cannot be pressed down. Occured several times including some times when I was driving. I have seen several complaints for the same issue. I'm worry about this, it could cause an accident. Something has to be done!!”

   NHTSA complaint #10556383, filed 2013-12, 58,000 miles
2. 2
   Vehicle speed control

   Unintended acceleration or no response from pedal

   Mentioned in 8 of 60 sampled complaints

   Some owners report the engine revving on its own, the vehicle accelerating without input, or the opposite: the pedal pressed with no power delivered. A few describe difficulty stopping with the brakes during these events, sometimes ending in a collision, and note the engine kept racing afterward. Several say the dealer could not find a fault, and some were told their vehicle was or was not covered by the speed-control cable recall. Scattered from very low mileage up to about 140,000 miles, with no clear seasonal pattern.

   Recall 12V357000

   What to check: Ask for the recall history by VIN and confirm whether the speed-control cable and connector were inspected or replaced; during a test drive, check that engine speed drops promptly when the pedal is released.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “I was unable to stop my vehicle in time to avoid a collision with another car. It felt to me that I had no control over the car because the engine was racing. I applied the brakes hard but the car would not stop. The traffic light had just changed and I was accelerating to go through the light. That is when the vehicle went out of my control. After the accident, I tried to drive my car away from the scene but the engine was racing and I could not control the car. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10652426, filed 2014-11, 140,000 miles

   “On 2/10/11 my son was in an accident with our 2006 madza Tribute. The gas pedal would stick every now and then, and the only way to release it was to push down on it with you foot and it would resume. Unfortuntly, he was driving on the I-5 freeway near grants pass, oregon when it stuck and he lost control of the vehicle. He hit a semi truck, then a 2nd semi truck, and was cited for reckless driving, although driving the legal speed limit on dry pavement. My son is 31. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10382490, filed 2011-02, 50,000 miles
3. 3
   Body and structure

   Rear wheel well and shock mount rust

   • 14 complaints (11%)
   • median 120,000 mi at 11.0 yrs old (11 state mileage)
   • filed 2014–2020

   Complaints describe a banging or rattling noise from the rear that turns out to be severe rust around the rear wheel well where the shock absorber or strut attaches, with the mount separating from the body and the shock left hanging. Owners report body shops quoting substantial repair costs or advising the vehicle was not worth repairing, and some say the subframe was corroded and needed welding. Mostly reported between about 70,000 and 140,000 miles, on vehicles roughly a decade or more old.

   What to check: Open the rear wheel wells and look at the sheet metal where the shocks mount for rust-through, bubbling, or cracks, and bounce the rear of the vehicle while listening for banging.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “The rear right wheel well area where the shock absorber attaches to the frame of the vehicle busted out. It no longer holds the shock in place to absorb a bump. I was recently informed by a bodyshop person that there was a recall that I was not notified of. Would you let me know if this is true?”

   NHTSA complaint #11328591, filed 2020-06, 7 miles

   “I heard a banging sound coming from the back of my vehicle only to discover that the passenger right side wheel well had completely rusted away and the rear suspension was banging around, I could actually see the bed lining of the vehicle scary when your driving around a 3 year old! I brought to a frame shop and was quoted $2500 for repair and basically told to scrap the vehicle (very disconcerting when there are only 140,000 miles on it),. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10861179, filed 2016-04, 140,000 miles
4. 4
   Engine

   Engine failure, knocking, or stalling

   • 14 complaints (11%)
   • median 77,000 mi at 8.9 yrs old (13 state mileage)
   • 2 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • filed 2006–2020

   Owners report sudden loss of power, heavy knocking, and engines that would not restart, with one complaint describing a connecting rod coming through the block and oil loss on the highway. Another describes a timing chain breaking shortly after purchase of a used vehicle, and others report stalling while decelerating or in traffic; dealers and shops diagnosed internal engine damage or replaced ignition and control components. Reported from roughly 55,000 to 115,000 miles, often shortly after a used purchase.

   3 related service bulletins

   What to check: Listen for knocking or ticking at cold start and after warm-up, check the oil level and condition, and ask whether the timing chain and engine mounts have been serviced.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “We purchased a used 2006 Mazda Tribute with about 83,000 miles on it from a car dealer. Less than 2 months after purchasing it, the timing chain broke and the engine failed. The engine failed after the car was parked and we attempted to restart it.”

   NHTSA complaint #11374918, filed 2020-11, 83,000 miles

   “Just bought this car from a used dealership in milwaukee, wi. I have a 90 day warranty on the car. In under 30 days the engine has locked up on this truck. I was going at least 10/15 MPH turning into the bank when the wheel locked up, the engine and oil light came on, and the truck shut off completely. It would not start after that. Finally, after it did start there is a horrible knocking. Probably threw a rod..... Most horrible experience I've ever had with a vehicle, and this is my first newer car!!!! …”

   NHTSA complaint #10515989, filed 2013-06, 102,000 miles
5. 5
   Brakes

   Brake pedal going to the floor, early rear brake wear

   Mentioned in 4 of 60 sampled complaints

   Some owners describe the brake pedal sinking to the floor with little braking response, even though pads and drums looked serviceable; in those cases the master cylinder and a wheel cylinder were replaced without solving it. Others report rear brakes and rotors worn far faster than the fronts at relatively low mileage, and one describes having to press the brake repeatedly to slow the vehicle. Reported from about 39,000 to 80,000 miles in the sample, plus one instance at much higher mileage.

   What to check: Check pedal firmness with the engine running, look for fluid seepage around the master cylinder and wheel cylinders, and measure rear pad and rotor thickness rather than relying on a quick visual check.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “The back brakes were inspected and they were worn down to 5% versus the front brakes still having over 50% left. The car only has 39k miles. The back brakes and rotors had to be replaced - not sure if this is going to correct the problem as we were told by the mechanic that it is unusual to replace the back brakes and rotors before the front.”

   NHTSA complaint #10236341, filed 2008-07, 39,000 miles

   “Brake failure, brake pedal goes down to the floor. Happened out of no were. Brake pads and drums are in good shape do not need to be replaced. Replaced master cylinder and left wheel cylinder due to bleeder broker. Neither of these have resolved problem. Vehicle still not repaired issue unknown.”

   NHTSA complaint #10362155, filed 2010-10, 78,000 miles

Buying note. Given the pattern of complaints, the things worth verifying on a used 2006 Tribute are the accelerator pedal feel in cold conditions, the recall status of the speed-control cable, and rust around the rear shock mounts, since those account for most of what owners describe. A pre-purchase inspection by a shop familiar with the model, including a look underneath at the rear structure, is worth the cost.

Summary written with AI from a sample of 60 NHTSA complaints for this model year (picked at random, with complaints that state a mileage and recent ones taken first), then checked automatically against the source records. Where a problem shows a complaint count, every complaint for this model year was matched with fixed keyword rules (written with AI and tested against the sample), and the mileage, age and repair figures are calculated from those complaints; owners' figures are as stated, not verified. Other counts refer to the sample. The excerpts come from NHTSA's public complaint records and are unverified; capitalisation is normalised, NHTSA staff notes are removed, and shortened text ends with “…”. Something wrong? Request a correction.