2006 Ford Escape Problems

What owners report

Owners of this model year most often describe a gas pedal that becomes hard to press or sticks, usually in cold weather, and automatic transmissions that slip, stop engaging or fail with little warning. Brake complaints centre on an intermittent hard pedal with ABS and brake warning lights, and many owners around and above 100,000 miles report rust in the rear wheel wells and front subframe.

1. 1
   Brakes

   Intermittent hard brake pedal with ABS warning lights

   • 59 complaints (13%)
   • median 76,210 mi at 8.5 yrs old (56 state mileage)
   • 4 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $1,500 (median of 5 quotes)
   • filed 2006–2022

   Owners report the brake pedal suddenly going firm with reduced stopping power, sometimes with the ABS and brake system lights on, and normal braking returning after the vehicle sits for a while. Some complaints say a dealer or mechanic traced it to the hydraulic control unit, while others describe cracked ABS tone rings that set off false ABS activation. A few mention the parking brake cable bracket separating from the underbody. Reported from about 36,000 to over 240,000 miles, with no single mileage pattern; several complaints describe it recurring intermittently over months.

   3 related service bulletins

   What to check: Ask whether the ABS light has come on and whether the hydraulic control unit or tone rings have been replaced; test the parking brake on a slope and look under the rear for a detached cable bracket.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “I have a 2006 Ford Escape v6 2wd. Both ABS tone rings cracked with only 58k miles. This is the same defect that Ford recalled on the 2001-2004 models. This defect causes the ABS system to fail and turn off. I have read that the 2005,2007, 2008, and 2009 have the same failures. That means every model from 2001-2008 have had the same defect without being addressed.”

   NHTSA complaint #10317845, filed 2010-03, 55,000 miles

   “Parking / emergency brake failed. Cable routed from hand lever to rear brakes goes through a bracket mounted to the underside of the body. Bracket separated from under-body of vehicle rendering hand brake inoperable. Vehicle was stationary on a slope with regular brakes applied. Parking brake was being applied to keep the weight of vehicle on an incline off off transmission park lock.”

   NHTSA complaint #11341750, filed 2020-07, 138,000 miles
2. 2
   Transmission and drivetrain

   Transmission slips, will not engage or fails

   • 55 complaints (12%)
   • median 80,000 mi at 6.3 yrs old (51 state mileage)
   • owner-quoted repair $1,900 (median of 10 quotes)
   • filed 2008–2020

   Complaints describe the transmission acting as if in neutral in drive or reverse, failing to accelerate at speed, or quitting entirely at stops and traffic lights. Several owners report the overdrive light coming on before loss of power, and repairs range from fluid and sensor work to full transmission replacement. Mechanics in some complaints pointed to internal damage such as a failed torque converter. Mostly reported between about 60,000 and 140,000 miles, sometimes on highway drives and sometimes after stop-and-go manoeuvring.

   Recall 15V6060002 related service bulletins

   What to check: Test drive from cold through all gears, including reverse and a highway merge, and check for delayed or flaring shifts; ask for transmission service records.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “Had a winter spell that brought about 6 inches of snow. When I left for work I got stuck at a stop sign and found myself unable to go forward or backwards. I therefore employed standard winter driving tactics slowly changing back and forth from reverse to drive in a rocking motion to get the vehicle unstuck. After freeing the vehicle I then proceeded to drive towards my work but the vehicle wouldn't stay in gear. …”

   NHTSA complaint #11302405, filed 2020-01, 130,000 miles

   “After traveling for 3 hours on highway the very first stop I came to, my car stalled. I restarted it and it stalled upon putting it back into drive (manual transmission). It stalls now upon any stop from driving and when in drive and upon moving into a reverse from a parked position. I found out that there is a problem on this car with the torque converter remaining in locked position after cruising at highway speeds. Ford asked me to take it to a dealership to be diagnosed. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10216597, filed 2008-01, 59,550 miles
3. 3
   Vehicle speed control

   Sticking or hard-to-press gas pedal (throttle body)

   • 76 complaints (16%)
   • median 70,000 mi at 5.3 yrs old (69 state mileage)
   • 1 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • filed 2007–2023

   Owners describe the accelerator pedal becoming very hard to push or feeling locked, then freeing up after repeated presses; some report the engine revving on its own or surging after the pedal is released. Complaints frequently tie this to cold starts and say cleaning or replacing the throttle body helped only temporarily. Several mention the pedal locking while pulling into traffic and the vehicle not responding until it released. Often described in cold weather, below about 32 F, and reported from roughly 25,000 to 170,000 miles.

   1 related service bulletin

   What to check: On a cold start, press the pedal slowly and check it moves freely with no binding; ask whether the throttle body has been cleaned or replaced and when.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “While driving, I went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck in the idle position - like it froze up. I stepped on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up. This has happened multiple times in the past few years about once every 2 months and typically on colder days less than 32 degrees f. After a throttle body cleanout by a licensed mechanic, it got worse. I looked on line for reviews on 2006 Ford escapes, and saw that many, many other Ford Escape owners have had the same problem. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10561750, filed 2014-01, 140,000 miles

   “During the cold months, the gas pedal will not depress. Normally after the car is warm, it will loosen up to be safely driven. However, this morning, 01/04/12, I was forced to let the car roll into a parking lot at a very busy intersection. I sat there for several minutes letting the car get even warmer but still had to mash the gas pedal several times before it would move. Luckily I was still very close to home and once I was out of the parking lot, I was able to let it roll the rest of the way home. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10442332, filed 2012-01, 70,000 miles
4. 4
   Engine

   Engine stalls, loses power or fails

   • 49 complaints (11%)
   • median 78,021 mi at 7.9 yrs old (42 state mileage)
   • 4 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $5,000 (median of 5 quotes)
   • filed 2006–2025

   Owners describe sudden loss of power or stalling without warning lights, sometimes with a loud clatter or smoke from under the hood. Some complaints report the timing chain breaking or a hole in the block, and one describes an engine compartment fire after smoke appeared. Repair estimates in the complaints are often high relative to the vehicle's value, and dealers in some cases covered nothing after warranty. Reported from about 33,000 to 140,000 miles, with several complaints between 50,000 and 90,000 miles.

   What to check: Ask about oil change history and any timing chain work, listen for rattles on a cold start, and check the engine bay for leaks or scorching.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “I was sitting at a drive through and vehicle started sputtering. Had to keep foot on gas to keep the vehicle running. When I went to pull out on the street, the vehicle stalled out. After 4 or 5 attempts at restarting, it started about 20 min later.”

   NHTSA complaint #10651048, filed 2014-10, 119,000 miles

   “I always kept the scheduled maintenance on my 2006 Ford Escape (85,000 miles). On christmas day 2013 my husband and I checked all of the car's fluids. Everything was fine. One week later as we exited the freeway, the car suddenly started to shake, loose power and make a very loud clattering noise. The oil sensor never went off and the engine light did not turn on until a few blocks later. Thankfully, we were able to make it home. I took the car in to our regular mechanics. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10558284, filed 2014-01, 85,000 miles
5. 5
   Body and structure

   Rear wheel well and subframe rust

   • 82 complaints (18%)
   • median 122,868 mi at 9.7 yrs old (66 state mileage)
   • 2 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • filed 2007–2024

   Complaints describe loud banging from the rear over bumps, traced to a shock mount or retainer separating from a rusted wheel well, and in some cases the shock poking into the interior. Others report the front passenger subframe rusted through and collapsing, or the CV axle coming loose as a result. Owners say dealers and the manufacturer declined assistance and referred them elsewhere. Usually reported on older, higher-mileage vehicles, mostly from about 85,000 to 180,000 miles.

   What to check: Have the vehicle inspected underneath, focusing on the rear shock mounts, rear wheel wells and the front subframe on the passenger side, especially in rust-belt areas.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “Bought vehicle for 17yr old son first car. While he was driving, he noticed a loud banging sound from the back. After investigation, found that rear wheel well had totally corroded away and rear shock was poking into the interior. Reported to Ford who said no recalls and would do nothing. When researching problem on the web, it turns out that many people have had the same problem. The Ford dealer advised me not even to drive it home as it is a safetly hazard and that the wheel might fall off. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10883755, filed 2016-07, 125,000 miles

   “The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. While driving approximately 40 MPH, an abnormal noise was heard from the rear passenger side of the vehicle. The contact pulled over and discovered that the shock retainer was fractured and separated from the vehicle. The vehicle was driven to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the shock retainer had excessive rust and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000.”

   NHTSA complaint #10731720, filed 2015-07, 85,000 miles

Buying note. A pre-purchase inspection is worth prioritising on this model year, with attention to the rear wheel wells and subframe for rust, the brake pedal feel, and how the transmission shifts when cold. Records for throttle body and transmission work help show how the vehicle has been maintained.

Summary written with AI from a sample of 60 NHTSA complaints for this model year (picked at random, with complaints that state a mileage and recent ones taken first), then checked automatically against the source records. Where a problem shows a complaint count, every complaint for this model year was matched with fixed keyword rules (written with AI and tested against the sample), and the mileage, age and repair figures are calculated from those complaints; owners' figures are as stated, not verified. Other counts refer to the sample. The excerpts come from NHTSA's public complaint records and are unverified; capitalisation is normalised, NHTSA staff notes are removed, and shortened text ends with “…”. Something wrong? Request a correction.