2007 Ford Focus Problems

What owners report

Owners of this model year most often report airbag problems: either no deployment in a crash, spontaneous side airbag deployment, or a warning light that stays on. Electrical complaints — mainly alternator failures and sudden stalling — and transmission shifting problems also come up repeatedly, usually at moderate mileage between roughly 40,000 and 90,000 miles.

1. 1
   Air bags

   Airbag warning light on or airbags not deploying

   • 127 complaints (32%)
   • median 60,000 mi at 6.3 yrs old (108 state mileage)
   • 53 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $800 (median of 11 quotes)
   • filed 2007–2023

   Complaints describe the airbag warning light coming on and staying on with no crash or event, sometimes traced by dealers to an open circuit in the driver's seat airbag loop or a lamp failure code. Other owners report that frontal airbags did not deploy in collisions that damaged the front of the car, and several report a side airbag deploying while driving over a rough spot or at highway speed. Dealers are described as diagnosing codes and quoting module replacement, or telling owners there was no coverage. Reported across a wide mileage range, from a few thousand miles up to well over 100,000 miles, and not tied to one season.

   What to check: Ask whether the airbag warning light has ever come on and whether the seat-side airbag connectors and module have been inspected. Check that the light does its bulb check at start-up and stays off afterwards.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “With no accident, trauma or unusual event, my air bag warning light began to come on and off intermittently. After about a week, it stayed on. I took it to a Ford dealership. For $119.16, they diagnosed it as codes b1868 - airbag lamp failure and b2232 airbag circuit open loop #2 front driver's seat. It would cost $1,100 to replace the module.”

   NHTSA complaint #10461502, filed 2012-06, 90,000 miles

   “The air bag light is on and come and goes this car has never wrecked or in any damage to it. Nothing was evectivted to make the light come on and stay on. I have been informed to get it relpaced asap due to the fact if can go out any sec. I am a single parent and can not go and replaced a part that should have no result from myself”

   NHTSA complaint #11310007, filed 2020-02, 130,000 miles
2. 2
   Vehicle speed control

   Sticking or unresponsive accelerator pedal

   • 55 complaints (14%)
   • median 43,000 mi at 4.0 yrs old (47 state mileage)
   • 6 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $400 (median of 5 quotes)
   • filed 2007–2021

   Complaints describe the accelerator pedal feeling stuck or requiring heavy pressure, then jumping, with some owners saying it is worse in cold weather and was diagnosed as a throttle body failure. Other reports describe unintended acceleration at stops or while braking, with owners shifting to neutral or tapping the pedal to bring idle back down. Dealers are described as unable to find a fault in some cases and replacing the throttle body in others. Reported from very low mileage up to about 160,000 miles; several owners mention cold temperatures or post-braking conditions.

   1 related service bulletin

   What to check: With the engine off, press the pedal slowly and feel for binding or a catch, then drive and check that idle returns to normal after revving. Ask whether the throttle body has been replaced and whether any stored codes were found.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “I got my vehicle from an auction site, so I do not have any history on it before 2016. The engine light comes on and goes off at regular intervals, especially, when the car is in extremely cold or hot temperatures. The gas pedal, also, gets stuck, regularly, I would have to be very careful with my pressure on the gas pedal to avoid hitting anything. I have noticed this, over the years, with the car in stationary mode and while the car is in motion, city or highway driving but, especially, after having to perform a hard brake in traffic. …”

   NHTSA complaint #11389516, filed 2021-01, 226,000 miles

   “The accelerator on my 2007 Ford Focus station wagon with 50,000 miles began sticking when the temperature goes below 40. I press on the pedal and it won't move, then it jumps down and moves quickly. According to the Ford dealer, an electronic piece, the throttle body failed. According to them, Ford is not manufacturing that part and the car can not be repaired until they find a new supplier, possibly end of january. It has been sitting at the dealership since dec 6 with a sticking accelerator and is not now currently safe to drive or fixable. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10371890, filed 2010-12, 50,000 miles
3. 3
   Electrical system

   Alternator failure and sudden loss of power

   • 46 complaints (12%)
   • median 56,000 mi at 4.6 yrs old (45 state mileage)
   • 2 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $500 (median of 8 quotes)
   • filed 2009–2021

   Owners describe the battery light not warning them before the car stalled or died, then finding the alternator had failed and the battery was drained. Some reports note the instrument panel gauges dropping to zero, the ABS light coming on, or the engine cutting out at speed before the vehicle had to be jumped or towed. Repairs described are alternator replacement and, in one case, an ignition switch that did not resolve a key that would not turn off. Often reported between roughly 30,000 and 90,000 miles, with some at higher mileage.

   1 related service bulletin

   What to check: Have the charging system load-tested and ask for alternator and battery service records. A service bulletin describes inspecting the wiring harness for chafing on this generation, so ask whether that was checked.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “Alternator failed without prior warning, please note that the charging system failure never once was indicated by the illumination of the battery idiot light before the vehicle stalled at 15 MPH and in a drive thru at a mcdonald's... The vehicle could not be restarted due to depleted battery charge level..... Note battery passed testing phase after alternator replacement.... …”

   NHTSA complaint #10432518, filed 2011-10, 86,939 miles

   “Battery light lightened, ABS light came on, all the instrument panel lines went to zero, car jerked a few times, then died. Tried to start it and just clicked, got a jump start and got it home. Brother checked it out, fixed alternator. Now it is almost a month later and same thing.”

   NHTSA complaint #10633420, filed 2014-09, 70,000 miles
4. 4
   Transmission and drivetrain

   Transmission slipping, harsh shifting or not engaging

   • 34 complaints (9%)
   • median 53,000 mi at 4.7 yrs old (31 state mileage)
   • 1 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $3,338 (median of 6 quotes)
   • filed 2007–2022

   Complaints describe the automatic transmission slipping in and out of gear, revving unexpectedly, vibrating on hills, or a shifter that will not move out of park until the engine idles for a while. Owners report the overdrive light flashing, fluid changes that did not fix it, and dealers quoting a transmission replacement. One report describes a transmission gasket replacement after the engine revved and lost power on an incline with cruise control on. Mostly reported between about 40,000 and 70,000 miles, with a few at higher mileage.

   3 related service bulletins

   What to check: Test drive from cold and on a hill, watching for slipping, delayed engagement or a flashing overdrive light. Ask for transmission fluid service history and whether any drivability codes have been stored.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “2007 Ford Focus 3 door w/auto transmission. 130,000 miles. Car is shifting in and out of gear. Rpm suddenly rises for no reason. Strong vibration on the hills. Mechanic replaced the overdrive sensor as it was throwing a code. Ford wants $3700 to replace with new transmission. I'm not convinced that it isn't a problem with the transmissions computer or wiring. There seems to be a lot of similar stories about these Ford Focus transmissions. Its not a well built unit. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10468281, filed 2012-07, 130,000 miles

   “The transmission went out at approximately 5000 miles, no major incidents LED up to it, however, minor sounds when it shifted, traction control would not shut off on one occasion.”

   NHTSA complaint #10208417, filed 2007-11, 5,100 miles
5. 5
   Latches, locks and linkages

   Door latches won't lock or doors won't open

   • 46 complaints (12%)
   • median 65,423 mi at 6.0 yrs old (40 state mileage)
   • 2 mention a crash, fire or injury
   • owner-quoted repair $500 (median of 5 quotes)
   • filed 2008–2021

   Owners report rear door latches that will not lock with the power locks or by hand, doors that stay unlocked at all times, and doors that later will not open at all. One owner reported all four latches becoming inoperable in warm climates, and another that the key could be locked inside with the engine running because of the lock lever position near the handle. Typically reported between about 40,000 and 90,000 miles, with some reports past 120,000 miles.

   1 related service bulletin

   What to check: Operate every door lock and handle from inside and outside, including the rear doors, and check that each door locks and unlocks with the power locks.

   2 excerpts from owner complaints in NHTSA records

   “The lock on the rear passenger side door will not lock. Doesn't lock with the rest of the doors and I cannot lock manually. Anyone could come open it at any time and take whatever they want. It is not safe. I am afraid if someone rides back there it will pop open if they lean on it.”

   NHTSA complaint #10509794, filed 2013-04, 84,000 miles

   “I have two problems with design flaws in my 2007 Ford Focus sse: (1) .because of where the door lock is located, just above the door handles (front driver and passenger sides) all the doors will lock at times and you don't realize it when you open, get out, then close the door. Most often in situations where you have left the motor running with the key now locked inside. This happens because of coming in contact with this lock with your fingers or hand while opening the door with the handle. …”

   NHTSA complaint #10236949, filed 2008-08, 3,065 miles

Buying note. On this model year, the items worth confirming before purchase are airbag system health, charging system condition and transmission behavior on a cold test drive. Records showing recent alternator, throttle body and transmission service reduce the chance of inheriting an unresolved complaint.

Summary written with AI from a sample of 60 NHTSA complaints for this model year (picked at random, with complaints that state a mileage and recent ones taken first), then checked automatically against the source records. Where a problem shows a complaint count, every complaint for this model year was matched with fixed keyword rules (written with AI and tested against the sample), and the mileage, age and repair figures are calculated from those complaints; owners' figures are as stated, not verified. Other counts refer to the sample. The excerpts come from NHTSA's public complaint records and are unverified; capitalisation is normalised, NHTSA staff notes are removed, and shortened text ends with “…”. Something wrong? Request a correction.